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Garment care

Garment Care

A complete professional guide to caring for every fabric — washing, drying, ironing, folding, storage and stain removal. A well-cared-for garment stays beautiful for years, which is exactly what makes secondhand fashion a smart, sustainable choice.

1. Read the care label

The label inside the garment is the most accurate instruction there is. Learn the symbols before the first wash.

  • A tub with a number = recommended water temperature (30°, 40°, 60°). Lower number = more delicate fabric.
  • A hand in a tub = hand wash only.
  • A tub with an X = do not machine wash — dry-clean or hand wash.
  • A triangle = bleaching. A crossed-out triangle = no bleach.
  • A square with a circle = tumble dry OK; dots inside = heat level.
  • An iron with dots = ironing heat (one dot = low heat, for delicates).
  • A circle = professional dry-clean only.

2. Sorting before washing

  • Separate whites, lights and darks — new dark colours tend to bleed in the first few washes.
  • Sort by temperature and fabric: delicates (silk, lace, wool) apart from heavy items (denim, towels).
  • Turn coloured, printed and denim items inside out to protect colour and print.
  • Close zippers and buttons and empty pockets — an open zipper tears other fabrics.
  • Wash underwear, socks and small delicates in a mesh laundry bag.
  • Don’t overload the machine — clothes need room to move to get clean.

3. Washing by fabric type

Every fabric has its own character. Here’s how to treat the common ones.

  • Cotton: durable, 40° is fine (whites up to 60°). Shrinks slightly in high heat and the dryer — buy a touch larger or air-dry.
  • Linen: wash gently at 30°/cold, remove damp and hang — it creases beautifully and that’s part of the charm.
  • Wool & cashmere: hand wash in cold water with mild soap, no rubbing or wringing. Dry flat on a towel — never hang (it stretches).
  • Silk: gentle cold hand wash with mild shampoo, rinse well, roll in a towel and dry in the shade. No dryer, no wringing.
  • Denim (jeans): wash inside out, cold, and rarely — that’s how the colour lasts for years. Hang to dry instead of tumbling.
  • Polyester & synthetics: 30°–40°, dry fast, iron on low heat only (high heat melts the fibre).
  • Viscose/rayon: very delicate when wet — hand wash or a cold gentle cycle, no wringing.
  • Lace & embellished items: mesh bag + gentle cycle, or hand wash.
  • Leather & suede: keep out of water. Wipe with a damp cloth, use a suede brush, and take tough stains to a specialist dry cleaner.

4. Drying

  • Air-drying is almost always better — saves power, extends fabric life and prevents shrinkage.
  • Hang shirts on a hanger to avoid stretch marks; lay sweaters flat.
  • Don’t dry dark colours in direct sun — it fades them.
  • In the dryer: choose low heat, take items out slightly damp and fold right away to avoid creases.
  • A wool dryer ball shortens drying time and softens without chemical softener.
  • Avoid the dryer for elastane/Lycra blends — heat ruins the stretch.

5. Ironing

  • Iron to the fabric: linen/cotton — high heat + steam; silk/synthetic — low heat, inside out.
  • Iron while the fabric is still slightly damp — easier and smooths creases effortlessly.
  • Delicate fabrics: place a thin cloth (cotton rag) between the iron and the garment.
  • Prints and embroidery: always iron from the inside.
  • No steam iron? Hang the garment in the bathroom during a hot shower — the steam relaxes creases.

6. Removing common stains

The golden rule: act immediately, blot (don’t rub), and only wash after the stain is gone — heat sets a stain.

  • Red wine: blot, sprinkle salt/baking soda, rinse with cold water; in a pinch — sparkling water.
  • Oil/food: sprinkle talc or flour to absorb, then dish soap directly on the stain before washing.
  • Sweat & yellowing: soak in cold water with vinegar or baking soda before washing.
  • Makeup: a wipe or a little makeup remover, then mild soap.
  • Blood: cold water only (hot sets it), and soak with a little hydrogen peroxide for whites.
  • White deodorant marks: rub off with a nylon stocking or a damp cloth.
  • Chewing gum: harden with an ice cube, then peel off gently.

7. Folding, hanging & storage

  • Sweaters and knits — fold, don’t hang (a hanger stretches the shoulders).
  • Suits, coats and draped dresses — hang on a proper hanger.
  • Vertical (KonMari) folding saves space and lets you see everything in the drawer.
  • Store in a dry, ventilated closet; moisture causes mould and odour.
  • Against moths: lavender or cedar instead of mothballs; store wool clean (moths are drawn to stains).
  • Seasonal items — wash before storing, and keep in breathable fabric bags (not sealed plastic).
  • Don’t store clothes on thin wire hangers long-term — they deform the shoulders.

8. Making clothes last

  • Wash less: airing a garment between wears is usually enough.
  • Wool pills — remove with a fabric shaver or a gentle razor.
  • Sew a loose button right away — prevents loss and bigger damage.
  • Shoes — rotate pairs and let them air a day between wears.
  • Cold washing (30°) protects colours, fibres and your bill.
  • Less fabric softener — it coats fibres and hurts the absorbency of towels and activewear.

Frequently asked questions

What temperature is safest for washing?
30° suits most clothes — it protects colours and fibres and saves energy. Whites and towels can go 40°–60°.
How do I wash wool and cashmere without shrinking them?
Hand wash cold with mild soap, no rubbing or wringing, and dry flat on a towel — not on a hanger.
How do I keep my jeans’ colour?
Wash inside out, cold, rarely, and hang to dry instead of tumbling.
What do I do with a fresh oil stain?
Sprinkle talc or flour to absorb, rub a little dish soap on the stain, and only then wash — no hot water, which sets it.

Want more?

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